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Tuesday, March 3, 2009

Tips on Growing Fig Tree

By Jerry Peterson

When replacing most of the soil, mix in with it two 6-inch potfuls of mortar rubble, and if this is not available use one 6-inch potful of crushed chalk.

Morello cherries are usually budded, though there is a variety in Kent known as the Wye Morello that grows well on its own roots.

Frequent failures of figs in Great Britain is due (a) to cold winters and (b) to lack of sunshine, with the result that the wood does not mature sufficiently well. The roots must always be restricted so as to aim at the minimum amount of new wood formation. The fruit is largely produced on laterals, and vertical shoots are less productive than horizontal ones. The fruit is produced on the current year's growth and at the tips are the tiny immature fruits which do not develop in the same year but stay as 'fruit buds' swelling out into fruit the following summer. Figs are grown on their own roots. I never feeds my figs for it is tremendously important not to encourage rank growth.

The method of training is, of course, on the fan system, and wires are therefore provided at 18 inches apart so that the branches may be tied in. It is easy fe,x a fig to cover a wall space of about 35 feet on a wall 15 feet high. Such a tree, of course, bears prodigiously. But even young trees four years of age will bear twenty to twenty- five fruits if they are happy.

Pruning is indeed a very difficult job because, as has already been said, the fruit is borne on the length of thin young wood which grew during the previous season. On a fan-trained tree, therefore, one has to be constantly cutting away the older wood and tying in the new wood. With bush trees, it is advisable to cut back some of the older branches each season the moment the leaves have fallen, and then, if there are any young growths in the centre of the bush, these will have to be cut back in February, the pruning cut being made just above a pointed single shoot bud. It is the double buds that are the fruit buds.

If one is to succeed with sour cherry pruning, it does mean that the pruning must be fairly ruthless after the first six years. After ten years there is usually a fair amount of dead wood to cut out owing to the Brown Rot Disease. It is better not to grass down sour cherries but to grow them on cultivated land which is properly mulched, so that the roots need not be disturbed by cultivation.

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