A number of the reed-type epidendrums also readily produce adventitious growth from along the older stems and at the ends of the extending flower spikes. Leave these until they have grown a good root system, which they do extremely quickly, then carefully remove them from the main stem by cutting them off with a pruning knife. Pot them up and grow them on in the usual way.
Phalaenopsis occasionally produce keikis or adventitious growths from the old flowering stems. This is frequently seen with the species Phalaenopsis lueddemanniana and related species or hybrids. If you want to encourage new growth in this way, you can treat the flowering stems with keiki paste - a growth hormone enhancement that is available from some specialist nurseries or orchid sundry firms. First remove the small green bract that protects each node along the stem, then apply the paste.
Paphiopedilums and Phragmipediums Sympodial orchids that do not produce pseudobulbs, mainly the paphiopedilums and phragmipediums, can be propagated from a back portion of growth, which is removed at repotting time in the same way as the old pseudobulbs are removed. This should only be attempted when a plant is large enough and is carrying in excess of four strong growths, otherwise it will reduce the strength of the main plant. Most of the phragmipediums are robust growers that are more easily propagated than many of the hybrid paphiopedilums, which can be slow growing, with the older growths dying before there is an opportunity to build up a very large plant.
Cattleyas are sympodial orchids that are also treated slightly differently. The creeping rhizome is much thicker than that of other orchids and is visible on the surface of the compost with the pseudobulbs spaced along it. Most cattleyas have two growing seasons in any year, producing new growth and roots in the autumn as well as in the spring. This makes it possible to start propagation during the autumn by severing the plant, which remains in its pot.
The plant that has become extremely lit with a length of bare stem at the base srd strong aerial roots along its length, be cut down by severing the rhizome at a point below the leaves and aerial roots. The leafless stump that is left in the pot will, in time, produce a new growth that can be grown on.
Dendrobiums are sympodial orchids, many of which grow tall, thin canes that will readily produce keikis or adventitious new growths along their length. This is particularly true of Dendrobium nobile and its hybrids. These growths occur most often as a result of poor cultivation. If the plants are watered too early in the season after the winter's rest, at a time when the flower buds should be developing, these flower buds turn into growths. If you were expecting flowers, this can be an annoying and disappointing habit.
However, if you want to produce new plants from one favourite specimen, try cutting off a plump, leafless pseudobulb that has not flowered and dividing this into segments, cutting between the nodes or growing points to produce several pieces, each with one joint at the middle. Dust the cut ends with sulphur or powdered charcoal to prevent rot, and place in a community pot with one end pushed into the compost (growing medium). Most of these will produce a new growth that can be grown on to make a further flowering plant within a few years.
You will need to check beneath the sphagnum moss regularly in order to see whether there are any roots growing. As soon as the roots appear, remove the moss covering and spray the roots regularly until they have grown several inches. The plant can then be severed and the top portion potted up and grown on into a new plant.
Phalaenopsis occasionally produce keikis or adventitious growths from the old flowering stems. This is frequently seen with the species Phalaenopsis lueddemanniana and related species or hybrids. If you want to encourage new growth in this way, you can treat the flowering stems with keiki paste - a growth hormone enhancement that is available from some specialist nurseries or orchid sundry firms. First remove the small green bract that protects each node along the stem, then apply the paste.
Paphiopedilums and Phragmipediums Sympodial orchids that do not produce pseudobulbs, mainly the paphiopedilums and phragmipediums, can be propagated from a back portion of growth, which is removed at repotting time in the same way as the old pseudobulbs are removed. This should only be attempted when a plant is large enough and is carrying in excess of four strong growths, otherwise it will reduce the strength of the main plant. Most of the phragmipediums are robust growers that are more easily propagated than many of the hybrid paphiopedilums, which can be slow growing, with the older growths dying before there is an opportunity to build up a very large plant.
Cattleyas are sympodial orchids that are also treated slightly differently. The creeping rhizome is much thicker than that of other orchids and is visible on the surface of the compost with the pseudobulbs spaced along it. Most cattleyas have two growing seasons in any year, producing new growth and roots in the autumn as well as in the spring. This makes it possible to start propagation during the autumn by severing the plant, which remains in its pot.
The plant that has become extremely lit with a length of bare stem at the base srd strong aerial roots along its length, be cut down by severing the rhizome at a point below the leaves and aerial roots. The leafless stump that is left in the pot will, in time, produce a new growth that can be grown on.
Dendrobiums are sympodial orchids, many of which grow tall, thin canes that will readily produce keikis or adventitious new growths along their length. This is particularly true of Dendrobium nobile and its hybrids. These growths occur most often as a result of poor cultivation. If the plants are watered too early in the season after the winter's rest, at a time when the flower buds should be developing, these flower buds turn into growths. If you were expecting flowers, this can be an annoying and disappointing habit.
However, if you want to produce new plants from one favourite specimen, try cutting off a plump, leafless pseudobulb that has not flowered and dividing this into segments, cutting between the nodes or growing points to produce several pieces, each with one joint at the middle. Dust the cut ends with sulphur or powdered charcoal to prevent rot, and place in a community pot with one end pushed into the compost (growing medium). Most of these will produce a new growth that can be grown on to make a further flowering plant within a few years.
You will need to check beneath the sphagnum moss regularly in order to see whether there are any roots growing. As soon as the roots appear, remove the moss covering and spray the roots regularly until they have grown several inches. The plant can then be severed and the top portion potted up and grown on into a new plant.
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