After planting the vine is allowed to grow naturally for two seasons. One should then find that two quite long rods have been produced, together with some side growths or laterals. In January the laterals are cut back to within one bud of their base, while the smaller of the two canes is cut back to within two buds of its base.
Therefore, with the ordinary outdoor varieties, all one has to do is to make sure that the soil doesn't lack in moisture and humus, and once again we gladly accept the straw mulching system as advised for blackcurrants and gooseberries. Clean straw, free from such weeds as clocks and thistles, is put down all over the ground where the vines are growing, to the depth of about 8 inches when trodden down.
The object now is to let this cane produce young laterals on which the fruit will be borne. These laterals will be tied to the wires provided and will be pruned in the summer once a month or so to keep them under control. This is usually known as stopping.
Meanwhile a strong growth will be developing froth the base of the vine rod that was cut back hard in January. This should be allowed to grow upright and should be tied to the stake or wires. Any side growths that develop will be pruned back to one leaf, and if any flower trusses are seen, these will be pinched up.
The following January the cane that has borne the fruit in the summer will be pruned, back to within an inch of its base, while the other cane that was trained upwards will be curved round to take the place of the one which was cut back. Thus year after year you ensure replacement of strong young wood, plus heavy cropping.
By then some of the elaborated sap may have been passed up to the wood and so some energy may be lost, but it can't be helped. Winter pruning on the whole should be hard, much harder, in fact, than in the case of every other fruit.
Therefore, with the ordinary outdoor varieties, all one has to do is to make sure that the soil doesn't lack in moisture and humus, and once again we gladly accept the straw mulching system as advised for blackcurrants and gooseberries. Clean straw, free from such weeds as clocks and thistles, is put down all over the ground where the vines are growing, to the depth of about 8 inches when trodden down.
The object now is to let this cane produce young laterals on which the fruit will be borne. These laterals will be tied to the wires provided and will be pruned in the summer once a month or so to keep them under control. This is usually known as stopping.
Meanwhile a strong growth will be developing froth the base of the vine rod that was cut back hard in January. This should be allowed to grow upright and should be tied to the stake or wires. Any side growths that develop will be pruned back to one leaf, and if any flower trusses are seen, these will be pinched up.
The following January the cane that has borne the fruit in the summer will be pruned, back to within an inch of its base, while the other cane that was trained upwards will be curved round to take the place of the one which was cut back. Thus year after year you ensure replacement of strong young wood, plus heavy cropping.
By then some of the elaborated sap may have been passed up to the wood and so some energy may be lost, but it can't be helped. Winter pruning on the whole should be hard, much harder, in fact, than in the case of every other fruit.
About the Author:
Grape is a long lived and deeply rooted deciduous climber in your fruit tree garden.
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