For apricots there must be some shelter from cold winds. There must be protection from the spring frosts, and there must be sufficient depths to the soil. Some people say that the spring frosts not only kill the blossom but damage the young wood and so start the die- back.
The aphides which canse the leaves to curl and the young shoots to be twisted may be prevented by spraying with a tar-oil wash in December, or by soaking with liquid derris when they are first seen.
Red. spider, which causes the leaves to turn to an autumnal shade, can be controlled if the undersides of the leaves are sprayed with liquid derris. I am told that silver leaf has given trouble but I have never seen it damage apricots.
Because of the danger of die-back, most experts try and do the pruning entirely in the summer. They aim at removing the unnecessary side shoots when they are 1 inch or so long with their thumb-nail. Growths, therefore, that are tending to grow away from the wall are pinched or rubbed out early. The remaining shoots should be pruned similarly to peaches.
There is little doubt that it pays to protect the blossom when it is out with sacking or fish-netting. It is usual, also, to titillate the blossoms with a rabbit's tail on the end of a bamboo, or a long camel hair brush, the idea being to the pollen artificially. If you are lucky enough to get a heavy crop, thin the fruits to 6 inches apart when they are as big as acorns. The apricots should be at least 4 inches away from one another.
I have never dared to sow the soil down to grass but I have mulched the ground where apricots are growing with sedge peat an inch deep in June, because apricots can suffer in dry weather. Though liberal watering in a drought I prefer the simple mulching system.
The aphides which canse the leaves to curl and the young shoots to be twisted may be prevented by spraying with a tar-oil wash in December, or by soaking with liquid derris when they are first seen.
Red. spider, which causes the leaves to turn to an autumnal shade, can be controlled if the undersides of the leaves are sprayed with liquid derris. I am told that silver leaf has given trouble but I have never seen it damage apricots.
Because of the danger of die-back, most experts try and do the pruning entirely in the summer. They aim at removing the unnecessary side shoots when they are 1 inch or so long with their thumb-nail. Growths, therefore, that are tending to grow away from the wall are pinched or rubbed out early. The remaining shoots should be pruned similarly to peaches.
There is little doubt that it pays to protect the blossom when it is out with sacking or fish-netting. It is usual, also, to titillate the blossoms with a rabbit's tail on the end of a bamboo, or a long camel hair brush, the idea being to the pollen artificially. If you are lucky enough to get a heavy crop, thin the fruits to 6 inches apart when they are as big as acorns. The apricots should be at least 4 inches away from one another.
I have never dared to sow the soil down to grass but I have mulched the ground where apricots are growing with sedge peat an inch deep in June, because apricots can suffer in dry weather. Though liberal watering in a drought I prefer the simple mulching system.
About the Author:
Garden plum fruit tree is best grown in a climate of hard winters, short springs and hot summer.
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